The Voodoo That You Do
In my previous post I made a few changes to the Blue Voodoo amplifier to help the gain stage. Namely, so I could find a sweet spot between clean and angry bees. Changing the preamp tubes did help that, but there were still other problems.
The Blue Voodoo is notorious for having an over the top treble with weak mids and bass. I was searching online, and it seems there are mods you can do (or rather a professional) to help balance the amplifier.
I took these mods to the best amplifier technician in town, Pro Audio Electronics of Tampa (run by Mike Jay) along with my Crate Blue Voodoo BV120. He looked them over, and said they were pretty neat, but reminded me that an amp will only be as good as whoever thought up the mods. In other words, he could perform the mods, but he couldn't guarantee what they would sound like.
Here they are copy and pasted from the website I found.
Okay- for this thread we are talking specifically
about the BV120H. Either version.
There are slight differences between the
preamps but they are slight. The potentiometers are constructed differently as
well, the blue tolex are plastic shaft and low turning resistance. The black tolex ones are metal shaft and higher turning resistance. These shafts also have
a tendency to pull out during removal of the knobs. Never install the knobs
until EVERYTHING else is completed.
The tone stack will be simplified and reshaped. Parts will be replaced with different values components or removed altogether. Nothing more fancy than that. Also keep in mind the modifications are not set in stone- you can pick and chose which ones to do.
clip C8
clip C17 - it robs some of the high mids
clip R101 (the 47k in parallel with the mid pot and R26) - more range of mids
change C14 to 390pF - more high mids
change R28 to 1k - bigger range of bass, you can have less bass or more bass.
change C16 to .047uF - if you need more low mids
Change R24, to 100k more resistance will give you more highs and apparent tightness in the bass.
lower R25 if you think you need more highs. most tone stacks don't have R25, replaced with jumper.
Change treble to 250kA and mids to probably 100kA or 250kA.
The tone stack will be simplified and reshaped. Parts will be replaced with different values components or removed altogether. Nothing more fancy than that. Also keep in mind the modifications are not set in stone- you can pick and chose which ones to do.
clip C8
clip C17 - it robs some of the high mids
clip R101 (the 47k in parallel with the mid pot and R26) - more range of mids
change C14 to 390pF - more high mids
change R28 to 1k - bigger range of bass, you can have less bass or more bass.
change C16 to .047uF - if you need more low mids
Change R24, to 100k more resistance will give you more highs and apparent tightness in the bass.
lower R25 if you think you need more highs. most tone stacks don't have R25, replaced with jumper.
Change treble to 250kA and mids to probably 100kA or 250kA.
After talking to Mike there were a few things mods I didn't have done. First, since there were already enough highs, there was no need to change R24. The same with R25. There was no need to change or mod it since it already had enough highs.
Also, it didn't need the pots changed. Both treble pots were already 250KL. So changing them to 250KA would only end up changing the taper. Nothing else.
So the mods were performed, and now comes the question, "How does it sound?" Well, it still has a bunch of treble. The mids and bass were both brought up a lot more. I still could have used more. But I will say it has a much more balanced tone. I will agree that it has a wider range of mids and bass.
The next question I'm sure is, "Enough with the talk! I wanna see some video action!" Well, I would too. However, I can't seem to cut the video down enough that I can download it on here. Honestly what Blogger wants me to do is download the video to YouTube, and then connect it over here.
"So why don't you do that?" Well, I don't want to put up with YouTube trolls. On here I can control comments with greater control. It's just become more trouble than I want to deal with for putting up a video.
The final decision comes to this. I wanted an edgier/ higher gain Fender American rock sound that would crunch at lower volumes. The Blue Voodoo does this with all these mods. But the question comes up, "How much did you (me) spend to achieve this sound?"
I think I only bought the amp for $200 or less. I may have paid $150 for it.
The power tubes came out of another amp that shouldn't have had 6L6 tubes in it. So that was a good deal. Especially considering they are Mesa Boogie tubes.
The preamp tubes were a bit pricey since I went with the not so standard, 12AY7 tubes. I bought two of them for $17 a piece (including shipping.)
I was also hit with a repair bill for the Blue Voodoo. The heater supply wasn't working and there were a few intermittent connections. So that added to the bill.
And finally, there was the cost of the mods.
So if you add all that up it was north of $500. Looking at the cost I might have been better off buying an "Evil" Twin Reverb.
You can find either the 1980's or 1990's version at around $500. Now, I could have run into the same problem that if I bought an older Fender, it might need repairs just due to it's age. There's always a chance it would need a complete re-tube, re-cap, and biasing.
So, pricewise it's always a complete crapshoot when dealing with older equipment. I always wanted a Crate Blue Voodoo and now I have one I really like. I'm also happy to put the mods out there as they have worked for me and a host of other players. Just remember, no matter what you play have fun with it.